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Out of the hoop
When I say "open source," I mean an SVG file you can do whatever you want with. "Make a conventional sewing pattern" is one of those things.
I occasionally get requests for a sewing version of an in-the-hoop plush, and sometimes I follow through on it: the Kawaii Toadstool exists as an in-the-hoop design but also comes in a conventional-sewing version. But I'll let you in on a little secret: I never sewed that one on the regular sewing machine. (It's not actually a secret, it says so in the instructions.)
If you're familiar with SVG files, that's the "source file" for Ink/Stitch and I include them in the embroidery design packages. An embroidery machine is just a sewing machine at heart, there's nothing it does that you can't do by hand: it is entirely possible to take the SVG file and follow the directions and sew the same thing. Obviously, that works best on things like the 3D Plush, since they rely more on shape than surface design.
Let's go through the Toadstool so you can see how it works.
On an in-the-hoop design, you generally don't cut out the exact shape, just a rectangle of the right size. The embroidery machine isn't going to follow the seam allowance to decide where to put its seam, so you can skip the whole pattern-transferring part.
You can't do that when sewing, of course, so instead you transfer the seam line (not the seam allowance) and then sew on it. The embroidery machine always sews flat-to-flat, no "curve matching," so you only have to mark one side of the fabric and just sew it together. Very beginner-friendly!
Next you just trace a half circle on each side of that piece, meeting the ends of the seam. Open up the toadstool body top, match it up to the cap, and sew a half circle. Flip it over, and sew another. Now you're at the same stage as someone with an embroidery machine is, so you can just follow the pictures and diagrams that show you how to trim around the seam allowances, notch all the curves, turn and stuff it.
Now, the sewing version includes a conventional-looking PDF pattern rather than the raw SVG, and I've given it the built-in seam allowance and marked notches and all that sort of thing. If you were to use the raw SVG instead, you will only see the lower part of the toadstool body, and you'll have to split the cap and rejoin it to the body to get the full piece. That's not hard with the toadstool, but it's a little more complicated with, for instance, the "unibody" dragon plush and baby dragon plush. Those take two add-on pieces (the top of the head and the underbody), which happen at different angles. The pygmy hippo is four pieces sewn together, with a four-way seam at each end - much easier than it looks, since again you're never matching different curves, but maybe not immediately obvious how things happen in the SVG files since it looks like only the sides are there.
But that's okay! I'm always just an email (or Discord or Bluesky DM) away, and you can always ask me "will it be hard to convert?" and "how does Inkscape work?" even before you buy a design. I'll steer you away from ones that rely too much on surface decoration, or that don't work at larger sizes. Just ask!